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Bay Tree Re-potting and Care Guide

 


 

Bay trees in containers are one of our favourite trees to frame an entrance, thanks to their timeless and elegant appearance.
 

What’s more, they are an excellent low maintenance option and thrive in containers, requiring only the occasional trim.
 

This article is primarily about growing bay trees in containers however they can also be grown in the open ground when given the correct conditions. 

Here’s everything you need to know about caring for bay trees in containers.
 

 


Position of your Bay Tree

 

Bay trees grow extremely well if they are positioned in a sunny or partially shaded area. Even though they like some sun, they do not like being scorched so avoid putting them in sun trap areas.
 

On the other hand, they really don’t like being too cold so avoid windy spots as they prefer more protected areas.

 

Watering

 

Water regularly but sparingly in well-draining soil during the growing season. Free-draining soil is essential to ensure the roots are not standing in water.
It is important to be aware that Bay trees has evolved in dry climates and will not tolerate wet roots. Hence good drainage is critical.
 

You can further aid drainage by raising the base of the container off the ground by using pot feet (or bricks) to prevent the drainage holes from getting blocked.

The top of the soil may look dry, but it might be wet beneath, so before watering dip your finger into the soil. If it feels soggy, wait for a few days and check again.
 

You can water less during winter, only, make sure the root ball does not dry out.
 

NOTE:
 

1.    Although Bay trees require a well drained compost, and are adapted to a Mediterranean climate, if kept in a pot, be careful to avoid the compost drying out,

             as your tree will suffer, show poor growth and make them be vulnerable to disease. In mid and late summer a pot can dry out in a day.

So the best strategy is to water ‘little and often’, and ensure that the compost never dries out.


 

2.    Don’t let your bay tree dry out over winter. As they are evergreen, they are transpiring water from the leaves at all times of the year,
including our very dry, and windy winters.

 


Feeding

 

Once the nutrients in the original compost have been used up, you will need to replace it. A soil-based compost is best, providing longer-lasting nutrients and a bit of added weight that helps keep the container stable. We always recommend an organic feed, such as Maxicrop Organic Natural Fertilizer.

A slow release fertilizer also can provide a steady supply of essential nutrients for healthy growth and development, whilst avoiding excessive nutrients leaching out of the compost.
 

To change the compost, gently loosen the top inch, being careful of any roots and replace with fresh compost. We like to mix multi-purpose with John Innes No. 3 mixed 50/50 by volume.

 

From late spring to the end of summer, during the growing season, additional feed will keep leaves looking lush and healthy. Push a pellet of slow-release fertiliser into the surface of the compost every couple of weeks. A good one is Goulding Slow Release Fertiliser General Purpose Granular Plant Feed.

 

There is no need for plant feed during the winter period.
 


Pot Growing Bay Trees


 

 Although Bay trees  be grown successfully in well drained soil, and kept outside all year round, bay trees are perfectly suited ground to keep them in pots.

This means when they are young they can be put outside in a sheltered location with lots of sun for most of the year and then moved to a more sheltered location in the winter time when temperatures start to cool below -10 degrees C. 

 

Ensure that pots have good drainage holes and that the bottom of the container has a 5 to 8 cm layer of drainage gravel or preferably Clay drainage pebbles*, which provides additional root aeration, as well as drainage.
 

If you live in a cold area or a frost pocket line the inside of pots with bubble wrap or other insulating layer to protect roots from winter frost. This will also keep the roots cooler in summer.
 

We recommend mixing one third john Innes no.3, one third of a good quality potting compost, one third horticultural grit. Never over-pot your olive tree and always re-pot to a slightly larger container.
 

In the first 12 months, your tree will need to be re-potted into a larger container to give the roots more space to grow and to make sure the soil isn’t depleted of its nutrients.


 

Repotting
 

As a general rule, repot your bay tree every two years in the spring. We recommend choosing deep pots with good drainage holes (below for best containers for Bay Trees).
 

Roots growing out of the drainage holes in the bottom or protruding from the surface of the soil are sure signs that your bay tree has outgrown its container.

Ensure that pots have good drainage holes and that the bottom of the container has a 5 to 8 cm layer of drainage gravel or preferably Clay drainage pebbles*, which provides additional root aeration, as well as drainage.

 

If you live in a cold area or a frost pocket line the inside of pots with bubble wrap or other insulating layer to protect roots from winter frost. This will also keep the roots cooler in summer.

 

We recommend mixing one third john Innes no.3, one third of a good quality potting compost, one third horticultural grit. Never over-pot your olive tree and always re-pot to a slightly larger container.
 

In the first 12 months, your tree will need to be re-potted into a larger container to give the roots more space to grow and to make sure the soil isn’t depleted of its nutrients.
 

Alternatively, rather than increasing the size of the pot, remove one third of the roots and then re-pot into the same container with new compost around the now-smaller rootball. Scrape away the compost at the top as well and replace it with fresh.

 


 

Frost Protection
 

If the temperature drops below -5 degrees C, then they will need protection as the containerised rootball will be vulnerable.

Move your bay tree to a sheltered position, for example, a garage, a porch or any other frost-free area.  This will prevent wind burn and provide some minimal protection against harsh cold weather. Never bring your bay tree into a heated house, it will damage it, significantly in most cases, and become vulnerable to indoor pests, due the absence of natural pest predators.
 

If re-positioning is not possible, wrap a thick layer of bubble wrap around the container.
 

Freezing winds will also damage the foliage, so if you cannot move the container, pop a fleece over them.

 

 

Pruning

 

 

 

Begin in spring and start pruning into a rough version of the shape you have chosen. When you are pruning bay trees into topiary shapes, you’ll need to trim a second time in the summer. You can do more precise shaping then, as well as control the new growth that has occurred.
 

Prune bay trees can be shaped into standard lollipops, spirals or cones, but this is a real art, and has to start when the tree is very young.




 

Prune bay trees use secateurs throughout the summer months to encourage a dense foliage. This technique of regular pruning will also help you to maintain a balanced shape.
 

When it comes to the actual pruning, you should take care to snip new shoots to the bud facing in the direction of the desired growth.

Bay trees often grow new shoots or “suckers” from just below or just above the soil level.

If growing into a bush shape then this is beneficial, they will expand the tree at the base. However, if you are growing standard bay trees with a bare stem these suckers don't look good. They should be pruned off with secateurs if growing above soil level.


Aim to get all your pruning done by the end of summer. Any later and the tree may go into dormancy without giving you any more new foliage.
 

We would suggest that a maximum height of 135cm / 4ft 6in is about the tallest most people can effectively manage for an untrained bush shaped bay tree.

 

Best Containers for Bay Trees
 

Terracotta Planters



 

Terracotta’s porous nature allows for air and water to move through the walls, preventing soil disease and root rot which is perfect for Bay Trees that will not tolerate being waterlogged.
 

Plus, they’re timeless!
 

Find out more about Terracotta Planters >>


 

Clayfibre Faux-Lead Planters


 

These planters are lightweight which is a great advantage if you need to move your Bay tree to more protected areas during the winter.
 

The clay fibre bonding method creates a very strong substance. So, this means that these planters are strong, weatherproof and durable – a must for any outdoor planters.
 

Find out more about Clayfibre Faux Lead planters >>


 

Corten Steel Planters


 

There are some planter materials that seem to grab you a bit more than others and Corten steel is definitely one of them for us. We often find ourselves enthusing over the use of Corten as a striking focal point.
 

Bay trees are the perfect sultry complement to the steel’s rust-coloured hues...a real wow factor!
 

Find out more about Corten Steel Planters >>

 

 

Ironstone Planters

 


 
 

Another timeless planter style that allows the root system to breathe, preventing soil disease and root rot are Ironstone and Old Ironstone planters, which are perfect for Bay Trees.
 

Find out more about Ironstone Planters >>         Find out more about Old Ironstone Planters >>



 

 

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